Visiting Sulaymaniyah: What Do People Who Visit Like?

Sulaymaniyah, also known as Slemani, is the second largest city in the Kurdistan Region of Iraq, and also a city that I had the privilege of visiting during my visit to Iraqi Kurdistan. When planning a trip to Iraqi Kurdistan you might wonder if Sulaymaniyah is worth a visit, and what people who visited liked about the city? I know I had the same questions!

People who visit Sulaymaniyah generally like the surrounding mountainous landscape, the milder temperatures, and the overall more liberal vibe that Sulaymaniyah has compared to Erbil.

In this blog post, I will expand on the things that people who visit Sulaymaniyah like and the reasons why I think that you should definitely consider visiting Sulaymaniyah on your trip to Iraqi Kurdistan.

What Is Special About Sulaymaniyah?

Sulaymaniyah is known as a center for literature and culture in the Kurdistan region of Iraq. It is renowned for its vibrant literary and cultural scene, hosting numerous cultural events, and literary festivals, and being home to writers, poets, and intellectuals. The city also houses important cultural institutions like libraries and museums, contributing to its reputation as a hub for Kurdish literature and culture. In 2019, Sulaymaniyah became recognized as a UNESCO City of Literature due to its long-standing tradition of literary excellence, with a history of being home to many renowned Kurdish poets, writers, and intellectuals.

Furthermore, the city played a significant role in the early 20th century, especially during the period following World War I and the collapse of the Ottoman Empire. It was during this time, between 1922 and 1924, that Sulaymaniyah briefly served as the capital of the short-lived, unrecognized Kingdom of Kurdistan, a period that symbolized Kurdish aspirations for independence.

However, the latter part of the 20th century brought severe challenges. Under Saddam Hussein’s regime, Sulaymaniyah, like much of Iraqi Kurdistan, faced brutal repression. The Anfal campaign in the late 1980s was particularly devastating. This genocidal campaign against the Kurds involved mass killings, the destruction of villages, and the use of chemical weapons, leaving deep scars on the region and its people.

The city’s narrative took a turn following the 2003 invasion of Iraq. Sulaymaniyah became an integral part of the newly established autonomous Kurdistan Region. This change brought a degree of political stability and autonomy that had been elusive for decades. Since then, Sulaymaniyah has been undergoing a period of rejuvenation and development. It has reclaimed its status as a cultural and educational hub, evident in its recognition as a UNESCO City of Literature, further solidifying its reputation as a center of Kurdish intellectual and cultural life.

1. The Nature Is Better Than In Erbil

The landscape surrounding Sulaymaniyah, although not anything extraordinary, is far more impressive than the one of Erbil, which is situated on a flat desert plain. The Zagros Mountains, which run through the Kurdistan region of Iraq and also extend into Iran and Turkey, define the terrain surrounding Sulaymaniyah with hills that turn green, should you choose to visit during spring. With the mountainous backdrop of Sulaymaniyah, you can take a gondola lift to the top of the mountain, where you can enjoy tea or something to eat while you watch the sunset over Sulaymaniyah.

2. The Climate Is Milder

Sulaymaniyah is located in the eastern part of the Kurdistan region of Iraq and enjoys a milder climate compared to other areas in the region. This is largely due to its geographical setting and its close proximity to the surrounding Zagros Mountains, the city benefits from a higher altitude and the mountainous terrain, which influences its weather patterns.

Summers in Sulaymaniyah are generally warm but less intense compared to the scorching heat experienced in the plains of Iraqi Kurdistan, such as in cities like Erbil. The mountain breezes and the altitude keeps the temperatures relatively mild, making the summer months more pleasant.

In winter, Sulaymaniyah experiences cooler temperatures, and it’s not uncommon for the city and the surrounding mountains to receive snowfall. This snowy weather contrasts with the milder winters seen in other parts of Iraqi Kurdistan, where snow is rare and winter temperatures are generally higher.

3. Sulaymaniyah Has A More Liberal Vibe

Sulaymaniyah is often perceived as being more liberal and culturally open compared to Erbil, especially in terms of its social and cultural dynamics.
This perception is influenced by the city’s rich cultural history with a legacy of Kurdish intellectuals, poets, and artists who have an open-minded atmosphere. But also the city’s universities and educational institutions that have nurtured a young, progressive community impacting social attitudes.

In contrast, Erbil, the capital of the Kurdistan Region, is often viewed as more conservative and traditional. This is partly due to its role as the political and administrative center of the region, and also because of its deeper historical roots, with traditions and customs playing a more prominent role in everyday life.

If you have visited Erbil, prior to your visit to Sulaymaniyah, Sulaymaniyah will come off as more relaxed, which is particularly noticeable in the presence of women in public spaces. In general, you won’t see that many women walking around the streets or markets of Erbil, however, in Sulaymaniyah, this is more common, and also without headscarves. I even went with a female taxi driver once, something that is unheard of in the city of Erbil. The city also has a large amusement park, known as Chaviland, located next to the mountains which is a nice addition to the city.

I am fully aware of the fact that the word “liberal” and “conservative” is highly subjective and varies in interpretation, depending on who you speak to, however in comparison to Erbil, I can agree with the statement that Sulaymaniyah has a more liberal vibe. Both cities have, however, a blend of traditional Kurdish culture with modern influences, and are generally welcoming to visitors. The perceived differences in liberalism between Sulaymaniyah and Erbil are more a matter of degrees and cultural nuances rather than stark contrasts.

4. There Are More Things To Do

Although there might not be any abundance of activities to do, Sulaymaniyah in my view offers a broader range of activities and things to do compared to Erbil. The amusement park, “Chaviland”, and the gondola that takes you up the mountain are nice additions to the city, which you wouldn’t find anything close to in Erbil. Moreover, don’t miss out on the Grand Millennium Tower, a five-star hotel with a turning bar at the top, where you can enjoy a view of the city while sipping on tea. If you are interested in hiking Sulaymaniyah offers several hiking trails all within a short drive from the city. In comparison to Erbil, where if you want to make contact with nature you need to travel outside of the city for a day trip. The Amna Suraka Museum is also well worth a visit, known by some as the biggest tourist attraction in Sulaymaniyah, is a famous museum that is free to attend that describes the human rights abuses towards the Kurdish people during Saddam’s rule.

My Opinion On Sulaymaniyah

Considering the fact that Sulaymaniyah is a three-hour (hellish) shared cab drive from Erbil, I tried to figure out beforehand whether Sulaymaniyah was worth a visit or not. Asking several people who had visited Iraqi Kurdistan before, some said that it wasn’t worth a visit and that Erbil was a far superior city, while others were giving a more nuanced perspective and said that it’s a more liberal version of Erbil. Since the opinions were contradictory, I decided to hop in a cab and go there to see for myself

Having spent two days in Sulaymaniyah, I can with ease say that Sulaymaniyah is a far better city than Erbil in several aspects. The milder climate, the mountainous surroundings, the more modern/liberal vibe, and the more things there are to do are all reasons why I liked Sulaymaniyah more than Erbil as a city.