Iraqi Kurdistan: Is It Safe To Travel To? A Complete Guide

Iraqi Kurdistan is quite different from Arab Iraq and represents the side of Iraq that often doesn’t make the news. One of the first concerns people have when thinking of Iraq is safety. However, the security situation in Iraqi Kurdistan markedly differs from that in other parts of Iraq. Having recently visited this region — my 78th country on a journey to visit every nation worldwide — I believe I am well-positioned to offer you an informed perspective on traveling safely to Iraqi Kurdistan. If you are ready to take your travels to a new level, Iraqi Kurdistan offers a travel adventure that will take you far off the beaten track, should you decide to venture there.

Iraqi Kurdistan is considered a safe destination and one of the safest places in Iraq. The troubling events you often hear about in the news are usually related to Federal Iraq, not Iraqi Kurdistan. Crime levels here are low, and walking around town late at night is typically unproblematic.

This blog post will delve into the current state of travel safety in the region and what to expect before setting off for Iraqi Kurdistan.

Western Governments’ Views

Western governments frequently advise against all travel to Iraq, although some differentiate between Iraqi Kurdistan and Federal Iraq, while others do not. Generally, travel advisories are more favorable toward Iraqi Kurdistan compared to other regions of Iraq, but they do warn of potential unrest and advise against all but essential travel to certain border areas. For example, the US Department of State places Iraq under a level 4 travel advisory and advises against all travel to Iraq, without separate judgment for Iraqi Kurdistan. The UK travel advisory also cautions against all travel to Iraq, except for essential visits to the Kurdistan region. My home country, Sweden, advises against all travel to Federal Iraq, yet it has issued no travel warnings regarding Iraqi Kurdistan.

Crime and Personal Safety

Generally, Iraqi Kurdistan is known for low crime rates, and violent crimes are rare. It is also uncommon for foreigners to encounter problems. However, it should be noted that very few tourists visit Kurdistan; most visitors are either working for an NGO or at one of the many consulates in the region. A testament to the low crime levels is the sight of money exchanges, with heaps of cash piled on counters in the local bazaars in Erbil.

Safety at Night

In Erbil, the capital, Ankawa is the Christian district, humorously referred to as the “haram district” by locals, where bars and liquor stores abound. I visited this area late at night, feeling completely safe. My companion and I frequented various bars and walked back to our hotel afterward without concern, reminiscent of the safety one might feel in a European city.

The Traffic is Crazy

The most dangerous aspect of Iraqi Kurdistan is without a doubt the traffic. Kurds tend to drive very aggressively and often without seatbelts. I occasionally attempted to buckle up, only to find that many taxis don’t even have seatbelts. I even heard from a local that wearing a seatbelt can be seen as rude, as it suggests a lack of trust in the driver’s skills. In the cities of Erbil and Sulaymaniyah, pedestrian considerations seem an afterthought, with scarce crosswalks and poorly maintained sidewalks.

Kurdish reckless driving is most apparent when traveling in a shared taxi between Erbil and Sulaymaniyah. Drivers often speed on two-lane roads in their Toyota Corollas, blasting loud Kurdish music, while also frequently checking their phones. One taxi even had a screen displaying random YouTube clips. Kurdistan is indeed a true travel adventure.

Military Checkpoints Are Common

Outside of the main cities, military checkpoints are a frequent sight. While traveling between Erbil and Sulaymaniyah, we encountered about five checkpoints. These are manned by the Peshmerga and contribute significantly to the region’s safety. Some checkpoints may inspect your documents and backpack, while others may not. Western passport holders often pass through easily, whereas Iraqi passport holders may undergo more thorough checks.

Turkish Drone Strikes

Before my trip, I read about the Turkish drone strikes regularly conducted in the region, which was concerning. Turkey frequently targets the PKK, which it deems a terrorist organization, located in the mountainous areas of Iraqi Kurdistan near the Turkish border.

Bearing this in mind, we hired a guide for a day when traveling outside Erbil, instead of driving on our own. We intentionally visited areas far from the Turkish border, such as Rawanduz and the Bekhal waterfall.

My Experience In Iraqi Kurdistan As A Swede

I visited Iraqi Kurdistan when relations between Sweden and Iraq were tense, following the storming and torching of the Swedish Embassy in Baghdad in response to Quran burnings by an Iraqi refugee in Sweden. Despite this backdrop, we faced no hostility as Swedes and I can only speak highly of the Kurdish people’s hospitality.

Poor Air Quality

Another aspect that you start noticing after a few days when visiting Iraqi Kurdistan is the poor air quality in the major cities, particularly Erbil. Heavy traffic, often from older, less efficient vehicles, combined with frequent sand and dust storms, contributes to a significant increase in dust particles in the atmosphere. Additionally, local stores and restaurants rely on diesel generators due to inconsistent electricity supplies, which further pollute the environment. Lastly, when traveling in the countryside, it is common to see locals burning their crop residues—a practice that, while traditional, releases large amounts of smoke and particulates into the air. Never have I been as grateful for a breath of fresh air as when I returned to my hometown of Stockholm.

Final Thoughts

In summary, Iraqi Kurdistan is a safe place to visit and ranks among the safest in the Middle East. While Iraqi Kurdistan is safe, the region is unstable which is evident through the military presence and checkpoints outside main cities. Take normal security precautions and use common sense when traveling in the region and you will be fine.